Am too working..

I am often amused when I hear a particular cruiser calling  out his boat name on the radio; invariably, someone calls back, "say what?"  The name of his boat is AM TOO  WORKING.  I get it! I know exactly why these people named their boat thus; they heard the following refrain way too many times: "Living on a boat... how much work can there be? You can't be working!"  And the boat owner replied, for the dozenth time, "Am too working!"
So bear with me for a bit of whining, understanding that I whine for the captain who really never whines himself.
Perhaps you've followed the saga of the hot water tank; at last writing the captain had a "few more" things to adjust before the big installation.  That was over a week ago and he has worked 8-10 hour days since then and still the hot water tank sits in a box on the dock.  There are really, really good reasons for this.

Michelangelo of the Bilge!

Once the leaky old hot water tank was removed the captain decided to do everything possible to prevent having to do a major job like this again.  So he spent days sanding and wire brushing  areas to be painted, then coated all wood areas with a foul smelling penetrating epoxy which required him to use a respirator and Buddi and me to be on the deck. About every five minutes I held my breath, ducked my head into the companionway, and yelled, "Are you o.k.?" Most of the time I could see only his feet and barely hear his reply as he spoke though the respirator. Next he painted metal surfaces with a silver paint which was pretty foul smelling as well and again made it necessary for Buddi and me to leave the area. Finally, he did the entire area in bilge paint which was only mildly foul smelling.  The end results are silver hands for the captain who "forgot" gloves one day, asthma for me and a beautiful shiny bilge.


Now we're into the wiring stage. A bachelor boater friend, John, is a retired boat electrician with time on his hands and knowledge to share.  For the past few days John has spent entire days here as he and the captain ran wires for the addition of two air conditioning units, a dive compressor, and an electric winch, then spent a full day straightening out a rat's nest of wires behind the hot water tank space.  It was an unbelievable exercise in expertise on John's part to reorganize the breaker panel box to accommodate all the new circuits and bring all the new additions up to code.  The captain says he is doing all of this work now as once the new tank is installed, reaching that area to work would be a gargantuan if not impossible task.
Just to make life interesting, while John and Larry work in the guts of the boat, Sergio the woodworker (not to be confused with Sergio the welder or Sergio the fiberglass man) is building a step in the head so my feet don't dangle as I use the newly installed Royal Crown II Raritan industrial strength turbo charged toilet. And Chava, the teak expert, is in the cockpit redoing caulking and resetting the bungs over the teak screws.  Yeah, I don't really know what that means, either, but I do know that it requires me to leap from the companionway to the deck to avoid stepping on the freshly laid caulk and epoxy. Oh, I almost forgot Hector the canvas guy (please don't confuse him with Hector the refrigeration guy) who periodically comes by to take measurements on the dodger and the bimini and get our opinion on sunbrella colors. Sometimes, folks, I simply huddle in my bunk coming out only for meals.
I think the end is in sight. Sigh....If we hadn't planned to attend a swap meet today in order to (hopefully) rid ourselves of extra stuff we either brought with us or took off the boat, we might actually take a hot shower on the boat tonight. Oh well, maybe tomorrow.  In the meantime, we'll just  make do with unshaven face and legs, add another layer of deodorant and hope to shower here tomorrow.

It's cool

Woke up this morning to a bit of chill in the air. Mr. Weatherman says there is a "little Norther" coming in to La Paz and staying for the next few days. I think "little Norther" might be something like being "a little bit pregnant."  Cold is cold, folks, and I was cooking breakfast in sweat pants and a T-shirt and my fuzzy slippers this morning.  Not necessarily a pretty sight, but very cozy.  By the way, thanks, J, for the French Toast Casserole recipe.  I just got around to trying it and used several of your suggestions for additions.  It was fabulous, enjoyed by all three of us (yes, Buddi liked it, too).  Bacon to go with it for the captain and juice and coffee for both of us. Of course having the oven heat up the cabin was a nice bonus.

You can see why the captain might need assistanc!

The captain is making the rounds at some boat and hardware stores this morning to get last minute items for his project.  I'm going to get an early start on laundry so I can be back in time to play scrub nurse for his operation.  He says "Vice grip" or "long-handled flat head screw driver" and I slap it in his hand like a surgical assistant.
In the meantime I'm off to do laundry. I have to admit I enjoy laundry duty. It gives me a couple of hours to sit outside the marina laundry room and read or chat with other cruisers or just enjoy the sun in between loading, unloading and folding. We have a small washer/dryer combination on the boat but although it has good washing capability it take eons to dry light loads and an eternity to dry towels.  So I usually take advantage of the marina facility while occasionally doing light loads here on the boat. Just as it is not cool to hang wet clothes out to dry in most HOA controlled neighborhood, one doesn't hang anything other than the occasional damp towel on the lifelines while in a marina. While at sea or anchorage...the entire boat can be used as a clothesline.
I expect to spend most of the rest of the day being tool man's helper and fixing some good meals for him. Kudos to the captain for his tenacity in working to make Milagro the best she can be.
Still a good life.....

Back to reality

Last week the open seas: this week the captain is back in the bilge , an enormous project ahead of him. Our hot water tank had

The captain in the bilge...half way!

developed a fatal leak. We've done without hot water for some time now, awaiting the arrival of the tank from the States, then the return of the captain from the States.  Then I got sick and as I was recovering we made the decision to go up into the Sea of Cortez... no matter what!  Well now we are back after a wonderful few days and reality has set in: it's time to install the hot water tank. The problems are many and here are but a few.  The current 6 gallon hot water tank was installed 12 years ago. Unfortunately a huge Northern Lights generator was installed at a later date....blocking access to the hot water heater.  Now it must be said that local workman cringe when we mention any work that needs doing in our bilge and claim it's the most difficult bilge to work on in La Paz. Nice reputation we've got without even trying.

Some of the "stuff" on the deck

Over the years that I've known the captain he has used nights and sleep time to find solutions to problems and difficulties, and this problem was no exception. He tossed and turned many a night while trying to come up with a solution. One of our experienced sailing friends, John,

More stuff on deck

has offered to help as well.  Of course "help" in this situation means sitting in a chair and offering advice as only one person can get down in the bilge at a time. Larry worked for two days moving wires and  cables and removing small parts which now litter our deck. Finally he was ready for the final steps. The two guys brainstormed and figured out a way to move the very heavy generator using a turnbuckle and an eye bolt screwed into the structural member above.  And it worked.  Supposedly it would be an relatively easy task (hah!) to remove bolts and pull the tank out.  Not so much.
As the tank refused to budge John suggested dismembering it, tearing off the the outer box-like structure, then pulling the tank out. The guys debated the merits of this method and finally the captain began tearing the box apart. And this time it worked.
Now one might think we are near the end of this story and the new tank had already been installed.  But that's not the way the captain works.  Now that everything had been cleared out he has decided to clean and paint the inside of the bilge, replace hoses, rewire the throttle and probably a dozen other things before installing the tank.  The thinking is that when the job is complete everything will have been inspected and refurbished if not new.  I applaud the concept but can't help feeling sympathy for the captain.  When he has finished this job, probably a week or more, he still must address the engine overheat (he's got that one diagnosed), install our air conditioners, bring the water maker up to speed, and most likely other stuff I haven't considered.
I have projects, too, but nothing of the scope of his jobs.  My regular duties still remain cleaning, cooking, laundry, shopping and a few on deck duties. So I'll feed him well and make sure he has clean underwear.

 

From the cockpit in the marina 3/20/11

From the dock next to Milagro,3/20/11

But we can't complain; no really, we can't complain! If you have to work on a boat...what better place than La Paz, Mexico.  It's still a great  place to live...and work.

Day four...sailing at last

View from one of our cabin portholes

Our third night at anchor was another bumpy ride; I'm more confident in the anchoring ability of the captain as well as the equipment by now so I sleep better, awakening just a couple of times to check our position, then going back to sleep.  As far as I can tell the captain sleeps though the night.
This morning we both seem to drag our feet.  It's a beautiful day and we three sit on the deck, the captain and I sipping coffee and and Buddi munching on her millet and all of us enjoying the sunshine.  We know we have to return to the docks to do some more work on the boat and we're scheduled to attend a St. Patrick's Day dinner tomorrow evening, but it's hard to think of leaving this beautiful space.
Last evening a couple we knew from our marina arrived aboard Prairie Oyster and anchored near us.  We talked on the radio and invited them over for dinner, but they had prior plans with other friends anchored in the cove.  However D did call back and invite me to play Mexican dominoes the following day.  I regretfully declined as we had planned to leave early the next morning; I have become quite addicted Mexican dominoes, meeting weekly to play  in the marina with others so addicted. 
We were surprised when D's husband pulled up beside Milagro in his dinghy as we were having a second cup of coffee this morning.  He tied up and we just chatted for a while. This couple will take the next 5 weeks to cruise up to San Carlos on mainland Mexico where they will have their boat pulled out and put in dry dock for the summer.  They are Canadians, as are many of the non-local cruisers, and will spend the summer (the hurricane season) in their home in Saskatchewan.  I've really enjoyed D's company the last few months and am sorry to see them go; so is the life of cruisers.  "Everyone" says we'll all meet up again some time, some where.

We are soon ready to pull up anchor and head out the inlet.  Los Islotes is about an hour a way and, as there is still no wind to speak of, we motor.  It's still a pleasant ride although the seas are running 2-3 feet and we're doing a bit more rolling about.  I'm watching myself carefully and so far there are no signs of sea sickness.

Look carefully, there are sea lions on those "white" rocks

Soon we approach Los Islotes, two very small rocky islands joined by a spit of land which is sometimes under water.  I remark that they look like something out a Star Wars landscape and, as they appear to be snow white, maybe the white cliffs of Dover. Larry just laughs; that's not chalk he says, it's bird guano!  And as we get closer we see that nearly every surface is covered with bird poo.  O.K., we are not unaccustomed to the phenomenon as we own a small bird; but this is amazing and frankly as we near the islands we come to the realization that sea lions stink and there's no doubt that the rocks are indeed covered in bird poo..
Los Islotes is the home of a sea lion rookery and the destination of many small tour boats which bring tourists out to swim with the sea lions.  We've been told that these critters are friendly and that the pups enjoy playing with humans.  I look forward to that experience, but today we just circle the islands.  I try to take pictures but we are bouncing about and can't get in very close, but we can certainly hear them barking.  The sea lions are very quick so as soon as I see them on the surface they dive before I can get a shot.  I'm still glad we came as we now know what to expect and note that there is a great anchorage a little further north from which we can dinghy back here on our next visit.

We circle the islands and head south noticing that the wind has picked up a bit. The seas are more like 3 feet and because we have changed heading  Milagro is doing a bit more rocking and rolling, testing my seasick quotient. Also, running the engine (which is still not overheating) with the wind coming from behind is blowing some diesel exhaust in our direction. I feel a bit queasy but nothing I can't handle; I'm even able to go below and fix (and eat!) some lunch.

After lunch we see that the wind speed has increased and decide to put up the jib.  It fills with wind and, leaving the engine running, we are able to do nearly 5 knots.  It feels good and gets even better as the wind speed increases further and we turn off the engine and are truly under sail, doing as much as 6 knots with only the jib out. It feels as though we are skimming across the water when in reality it's the speed of a nice jog! I finally remember the wonderful wooshing sound of the water beneath us and the sails in the wind.  It's a soft, peaceful quiet and as I pan the movie camera 360 degrees I see birds, schools of fish and the occasional seal but not a boat or person as far as the eye  can see.
The captain has been studying the auto pilot manual and finally figured out the very complicated system installed by Milagro's previous owner.  With a remote control and a 50 foot cord he can sit in a chair on the forward deck and steer the boat.  He remarks  that it would even be possible to guide our course from the head, but why he would want to do that is a mystery to me and I'm not eager for him to test the theory.
We've seen much of the sea life we had hoped to see on this short trip, but I'm disappointed we haven't spied a whale.  All of sudden the captain shouts and points to the port side.  There, 100 feet away, I see an enormous whale tail disappearing into the blue water. No time for a camera and although we search the area for a long time we do not see the whale again. Still, we did see the tail of a whale!

The remainder of this trip is near perfect. As we near the channel to La Paz and Palmira the wind slowly dies. The sun is setting and the water is like glass. The captain winches the jib in and starts the engine and we motor down the channel and into the marina where some friends wait to catch the dock lines.
This has been a wonderful maiden voyage for us and has only whetted our appetites for future cruising.  Talking with other cruisers about their adventure in the South Pacific, New Zealand and Australia and other exotic spots make us eager to complete the work on Milagro and to get on with our own adventure.

Day three

After a wonderful night's sleep we are awakened again by sunlight streaming in the portholes.  I mention to the captain that we will need tiny round covers for the portholes, maybe something like a dark shower cap, so that the person who is off watch on longer cruises can sleep during the day.  I envision my mother's flowered shower cap which also served to cover "pin curls" on occasion and I can't help but giggle.

Milagro at anchor

We get up this morning with bigger appetites and I fix bacon (regular for him and soy for me), eggs, toast and sliced tomatoes along with the coffee and one of Buddi's favorites, pineapple juice. This day we decide to complete our morning duties as quickly as possible as the winds are light and we want to get our dinghy ride in before the weather changes.  About an hour later we are lowering the dinghy and taking off for our starting point, the mouth of the cove.  The first thing we see is a very rustic fishing camp on the north side of the mouth with shacks and tents and pangas and a few locals wandering about.

Birds and rocks on the north side

As we pass the inlet the wind whips up again, but calms right down as we reach the southern shore.  In the dinghy we can travel very close to the edge and we see the bottom clearly although it may be twenty or more feet below us.  As we pass over rocks and ledges we see all kinds of fish: large and small, colorful striped zebra fish, pencil fish and even beautiful black angel fish, bigger than dinner plates and sporting bright blue and yellow stripes.
 The mountains often rise straight up from the ocean floor and although I thought I saw easy hiking trails when viewed from the north side, I now realize I would need climbing gear to manage these "trails." And although they appeared to be barren from a distance, scrub bushes and cactus abound.

A larger fishing camp on the east side of the cove

We putter along looking at all of the sea life and viewing the mountains up close until we reach the eastern end of the cove.  Again, from a distance it appeared that there was a small berm and the Sea of Cortez was just over that berm. We tied up to a mooring buoy, got out and waded through the shallow waters only to find that it was quite some distance to the other side. So, passing another, larger, fishing camp we climbed a small sand dune, then went down the other side where a wide shallow lagoon lay between us and another, much rockier hill. Climbing to the top of that was well worth the effort as the Sea of Cortez spread out before us.  I have never seen a more beautiful shade of water; the closest thing to it would be a natural sapphire.

We had seen another dinghy pull up as we were climbing the dune but they didn't stay; I wanted to tell them to come on, there's so much to see.

The Sea of Cortez,...sapphire blue

We reversed our steps and waded out to the boat.  The wind was picking up a little as we headed back to Milagro.  My intention was to lower my kayak and paddle to the sandy beach on the north side, then get out and explore on foot.  But by the time we reached the boat the wind was pretty strong and I decided not to fight it.  If someone had trouble the day before using an engine I thought my paddling skill  and strength might not suffice. We had some difficulty winching the dinghy back up (practice makes perfect) so it was mid afternoon before we finally settled in and decided to take a siesta. One of the most difficult aspects of retirement has been learning to relax. We don't get too many siestas but it sure is nice to know we can if we want.
We just relaxed and enjoyed dinner and the rest of the evening.  We had decided to lift anchor fairly early the next morning so we could make it to Los Islotes which is north of Partida and then back to the marina before dark.  We knew we were still facing a potential problem with the engine and didn't care to be bobbing around in the sea if there wasn't enough wind to sail.  So early to bed and a good night's sleep despite some heavy winds.