Moving southward to La Cruz

Banderas Bay?

It was April 27 and our trip to La Cruz would be a night passage.  The trip was approximately 80 miles, and we had left Isabel in late afternoon.  If all went well, we would arrive in La Cruz in the early morning.

It was cold again and the routine of layering up as the night went on continued.  The night watches were more difficult for Sharon and me because of the very active day we had had.  Normally there is time during a cruising day to nap, or even sleep soundly for at least a little time, but not today and we were both feeling it.  But we, like the crusty sailors we had become, bucked up and did our duty, knowing that the morning, Banderas Bay, and sleep would follow.  We had a light meal, and set into our watch schedule. 

Bahia de Banderas, or Banderas Bay, (northern entrance 20 deg – 45.465N by 105 deg – 34.858W) is one of the largest natural, deepwater bays in Mexico.  The bay lies between the two states of Jalisco and Nayarit, and is also situated between two different time zones which can result in some confusion over the local time depending on which end of the bay you are in.

The northern point of the bay is formed by the rugged and beautiful Punta de Mita.  This point is home to the Four Seasons Resort and golf course, and is also known by surfers as a popular break.The southern point of the bay is formed by the notorious Cabo Carrientes (Cape of Currents).  As is typical with most prominent capes this southern promontory can cause accelerated winds, and combined with currents the cape is known for, can make for an uncomfortable trip.  On the morning nets a great deal of time is spent talking about the conditions at Cabo Carrientes, and in many cases the weather for the entire bay is attributed to those conditions.

Twenty three nautical miles separate the two points from north to south, with the bay nearly twenty miles deep for west to east.  An amazing assortment of wildlife fills this large bay from whales and sea turtles, to manta rays and dorado fish.  One of the favorite past times in the bay during the winter months is whale watching and people come from all over the world to participate.  Humpback whales and their calves deliver daily shows throughout the bay, breaching, frolicking and singing. 

The bay has several cities located along its shoreline, each with their own charm and attraction.  There is Punta Mita, La Cruz, Bucerias, Nueva Vallarta, and the largest,Puerta Vallarta, Los Arco, and several other villages too numerous to mention. 

Due to the presence of a rather nice marina that might be affordable if we needed it, and based on the advice of several of our advisors, we chose to go to La Cruz originally; we could visit other places as we decided.

I have a tendency to like to sail pretty far off shore.  I have found that particularly in Mexico cruising close to shore, although it is more scenic, can offer surprises to the complacent mariner.  It seems that islands, rock pinnacles, and other scary stuff can just pop out of the water with no advance notice and grab you, especially at night.  I try to be as unaware as possible when I am sailing, part of the allure of sailing for me, so it is better for me to be offshore in deep, unobstructed water.  

The entrance to Banderas Bay from the north is a bit tricky because of some submerged rock formations, and small island outcroppings, so I planned my navigation carefully, and came in pretty close to Punta de Mita.  The wind was almost non-existent, and the visibility was pretty good, with some fog, haze and mist but not too bad. I was tired after a fairly uneventful, but long night of sailing, and it was so refreshing to round the cape, and see the lovely anchorage, with sea walls surrounding the marina, and pangas moored all over the place and on the beach.  What a lovely spot.  There were several other sailboats and motor yachts anchored, and I just pulled up, found a good place and dropped the hook. 

I think Sharon was as tired as I was so we ate a little breakfast then decided to nap a while before going ashore.  I slept for about 3 hours, soundly, deathlike, and deep, and when I finally did wake up, I felt like I had the dingy on my shoulders.  Sharon was already up, and was writing on her computer.  We decided to go exploring, and we needed to check in with the Port Captain, so we deployed the dingy and lit out for the marina.