A funny thing happened...

We went out for hamburgers (and one veggie burrito) Friday evening with friends from San Diego who were visiting their sailboat, White Cap, for a week or so.  We were discussing beverage choices when I noticed that Jamaica was on the menu.  It is a beautiful red delicious "tea" made from dried hibiscus flowers. The ladies ordered that, then M, who speaks a modest amount of Spanish asked our server, who speaks a modest amount of English, if the restaurant also served cucaracha (at least that's what it sounded like.) The girl looked both surprised and confused; she repeated the request several times then indicated she would get her manager.  Meanwhile M explained that this was a sweetened rice drink she had had in San Diego.  The manager came back with our young lady and, trying to keep a straight face, asked M is she meant "horchata."  M turned as red as the Jamaica and we all had a good laugh as he explained that she had been asking for a cockroach. 
Like M, I like to try my Spanish whenever possible.  One usually stands less of a chance making a faux pas in a restaurant than in a, say, hardware store.  But the opportunity for saying something foolish or outrageous is always there for us newbies.  I am continually grateful for the tolerance, understanding and sense of humor exhibited by the Mexican people here in La Paz.

Going up the mast...not!

That's the captain, way up there.

There are occasions when owning a sailboat when somebody has to go up the mast, whether to repair, replace, paint or untangle.  In the past the captain has done this himself or commandeered a fellow boater or, on several occasions, one of our adult children to complete tasks on a swaying pole 65 or more feet above the water.  Last week the captain informed me that a new radar reflector needed to be installed, not all the way to the top of the mast, but past the second spreader. The long pause after that statement led me to believe that I was being given the opportunity to volunteer.  I did not.

Almost there...

As discussion ensued it became obvious that as the lighter of the two bodies it made sense for me to go up.  Looking up I could imagine myself at the lower of the two spreaders, but this job required the "hoistee" to be above the second spreader and then to let go, I repeat let go of the mast and move several feet to the standing rigging and the use two hands, again two hands to install the reflector.  At this point I decided I was Wonder Woman incarnate and capable of hoisting the captain all the up to job level.
With that decision made we gathered the necessary tools, checked out the bosun's chair, strapped the captain in and had a couple of trial runs.  I repeated the instructions, making certain I knew the exact method of not only winching the captain up, but in getting him down...preferably a a slow rate of speed.  

Mission complete

Once again the captain strapped himself in, we double checked the lines, and I began hoisting  him up the mast. It was a slow process and we encouraged each other along the way: I kept asking, "Are you o.k?", and he reminded me not to stand under his work area in case he dropped a tool.  When he finally made it up he swung out to the standing rigging and I tied the line off to a cleat.  While he was working I managed to snap a couple of pictures....from a distance! The wind had come up a bit by that time and I watched as the mast swayed ever so slightly above the deck. And yes, a screwdriver did hurtle down to the deck! The captain completed the task, slid back to the mast and was ready to come down.
I was actually more concerned about the ride down.  If I didn't maintain a tight hold on the line, he might descend too rapidly and crash on to the deck. But the self-tailing winch did its job beautifully and while I would love to pretend that sheer muscle on my part brought him down safely, the truth is it was a piece of cake.
Like so many unknowns, it turned out to be a lot easier than I anticipated. 
As the captain reminds me often, it's all part of the adventure.

To R and T: thanks for the times you went up the mast for the captain. One time R, always ready to try new things, scared his Mom witless by shouting, from the top of the mast, OMG!, when he saw manatees in the water below.  And for T, I'm very proud of you, even though I know you  were at least partly motivated by not wanting to be a "chicken"  in front of your daughter. =)

Small packages hold wonderful gifts

"pretty bird"

Before retiring I worked in a very small branch library.  Although tiny and tight quartered we had full complement of materials and services. We checked out all the best sellers as well as the standard fare of fiction and non-fiction, used up-to-date computer programs, sponsored a busy childrens  program and had the requisite public access computers for searching, research and internet access.  My supervisor had a standard reply to patrons who walked in and whined, “Gee, this library is so small;” “We are small but mighty!!!” was her reply. With apologies to D.B for borrowing her creative response, I would like to present our bird, Buddi, Ta dah... as a "small but mighty" addition to our crew.

At about 12 inches from bowsprit to stern she doesn’t appear to be very intimidating.  But friends and family love to regale others with the times they were attacked by and/or bitten by our bird.  We’ve tried to explain that Buddi, hand-fed by us when she was still a baby, does not see herself as a bird, but recognizes the captain and me as her “flock.”  And of course she feels obligated to protect her flock from any and all intruders, no matter how many times larger they are than she is.  I think that’s pretty brave and maybe even noble. Given time Buddi does become tolerant of outsiders and will invite an extended stay visitor into the flock. It would be nice if she were openly friendly to all she met, but that is not the nature of tropical birds; indeed we feel fortunate that she has bonded to both of us (although I confess she slightly favors the captain) as many pet birds love their primary caregiver and heartily dislike that person's partner!

Goin' for a walk with my bird...yeah!

We enjoyed taking her out when we lived in Florida where she was well known at Home Depot, Pinch-a-Penny and West Marine and was an honored guest at Big Apple Pizza and Quiznos (outside seating, of course). People stopped to admire her and the manager of our favorite pizza place would bring her a small plate with a chopped up garlic knot to tide her over until the pizza arrived.

We were unsure as to how the Mexicans would take to Buddi but we needn’t have worried; they seem to love her at least as much as the Americanos.  From the moment we arrived at the border in Tecate Buddi has been a star.  While authorities tried to figure out her immigration papers (passport, health certificate and copy of the CITIES treaty) their aides made silly bird and baby noises and asked to hold her.  We shook our heads and made a biting sign with forefinger and thumb and most backed off respectfully.  At the numerous military checkpoints along the north/south Baja route the story was always the same. Stern young military men would signal me to roll down the passenger window.  When they saw Buddi they would break out in foolish grins and begin the silly bird-talk.  I was very glad to have her at my side for while they still checked us out at each stop I felt that Buddi smoothed the way.

Buddi drinking her favorite juice,
nectar de durazno.

Now that we’ve settled in La Paz we often take her with us, whether walking, driving or riding our bikes.  She seems to be quite content in her bird backpack.  I was concerned that she might hate it as she did the "flight harness" we purchased then threw away (she was having none of that, thank you very much!), but she seems to enjoy her outings. She gets excited when we get the backpack out, flapping her wings much like the dog jumping up and down at the door when the owner asks, “Do you want to go out?”  And once zipped in she remains quiet, occasionally munching on treats or getting a drink of water.

Ahhh...a cool treat

We confess to being a bit silly about Buddi.  But she gives us so much pleasure she is well worth cleaning up the occasional misplaced poo or the seed hulls which float out of the cage no matter what precautions are taken.  When she gets tired in the evening (these birds need 12 hours of sleep per night) she crawls down in Larry's shirt or mine if he's not available.  In the morning the snuggles with us on our pillows. She plays "where's Buddi" sticking her head out and giving a big squawk. When in a playful mood she "wrestles" with us, rolling over on her back and grabbing a finger with beak and feet.  She's a lot of fun and we love her and are glad we took the extra steps to make her a part of our crew!

He's baaaaack...

Captain Larry arrived late last night, tired but happy to be back "home."  Milagro really does feel like home to both of us now, and I suppose it really should as it is the only home we have.  We talked for a couple of hours trying to get caught up with news from each other as well as from friends and family in the States.  And of course we had to look over all of the really cool purchases such as the fine tool, the new advanced radar reflector, stainless clips for doors, and for me a kindle cover, an adorable little computer and a small digital camera with which I can take video. Video coming soon to a blog near you!
We slept late, had breakfast on the (recently scrubbed) deck, went out for a couple of hours to a meeting and to pick up a new hot water heater. (Yes, I have been walking a half a mile to public showers and heating water on the gas stove for dishes.  Reminds me, fondly I must say, of camping days.)

Smooches for the Captain!

Rest of the day all three of us have just lazed about and enjoyed each others company.
It's good to have the man in charge back.

Even the bird's excited

Today the captain is madly completing business in the States and packing for a return trip to Mexico.  I expect him to arrive at the marina somewhere around midnight tomorrow night, and I know one person and one bird will be extremely happy to see him.  I expect Buddi will yell at him for several minutes, her usual reaction to being "left behind;" then she will run down in his shirt and we won't be able to pry her out.

Buddi, our bird in a gilded cage

Oh yeah, I missed him too, and am looking forward to a big hug, but first things first, people; we all know Buddi gets first dibs on smooches.  And that's O.K.; I expect there will be enough to go around.
Here's a special thanks to those good friends who took care of the captain while he was in Florida.  You know who you are and both Larry and I are grateful for everything you did to make his stay comfortable.  And would the one of you please email that French toast casserole recipe to me?  It has been "requested" that I learn how to make it, "just like J does." =)

Random thoughts after a bike ride along the malecon

Almost to the southern end of the malecon

The malecon is the beautiful walkway which runs adjacent to the bay of La Paz.  Biking is permitted so it is a safe place to ride and still enjoy the view.  Today the water on the bay was sooo beautiful; I counted six different "layers" of color running from pale aqua to deep green. The colors change according to the weather and time of the day and  the bay never looks the same two days in a row.

Northern end of malecon and Bahia de la Paz

I've been told it is about 4.5 miles round trip from Marina Palmira to Club Cruceros.  I don't pay a lot of attention to time since I sacrificed my watch to the sea when the clasp came loose and it fell into 12 feet of marina sludge. Still, I would guess it took me about twenty minutes of steady pedaling to get to the Club this morning.  That was with a tailwind coming out of the north. Easy ride!  Going back was a different story.  I was heading directly into that north wind, a steady 15 knots with bigger gusts.  Too bad I couldn't tack!  Anyway, it's all good exercise.

Picked up a package this morning, medications mailed from North Carolina on January 8th!  Surprisingly it had not been opened at customs. I wondered if "aduana" would open it and then confiscate the contents as "drugs."  While it does seem that the package took an extraordinarily long time to get here, I am grateful that it arrived intact.  After my most recent minor cardiac incident in the States I am extra cautious about taking meds.  I did some local research and found that the two most important drugs I take daily are available, without prescription, here in La Paz. I confess, however, that I would feel better getting them from my own stateside pharmacy. 

This afternoon I will be on the dock washing some canvas pieces: covers for hatches, winches and the like.  It has been chilly and windy here for more than two weeks and I preferred to complete below deck projects to being wet for a couple of hours as I wash, rinse, "soften" then rinse again. I am happiest when the atmosphere is dry and 80 degrees!  But I can't put it off any longer as the captain returns in a few days and that was on my list of things to do (that's my list, not his). 

Talked with the captain this morning.  He was moving Stray Dogs to another dock and wanted to share with me that he was "freezing" out on the water in Stuart today.  I hope by the time I finish this he is docked, dry and warm.
See you soon, captain.

Channel 22 and the Cruisers' Net

Here in La Paz we have a rather interesting way of communicating as well as getting our local gringo boaters news.

P.S. Special thanks to the captain's coworkers 
whose gift made a very nice hand held vhf radio possible

Each morning at 8:00 a.m., Monday through Saturday, channel 22 on the VHF radio becomes information central for La Paz cruisers. Various long time locals take turns as "net control;" this means, in theory, anyone wanting to address "the fleet" must first give their boat name and be recognized by the net controller. The controller begins by asking if anyone has an emergency or immediate medical issue. Thank goodness there is rarely a response. Then he or she goes down a pre-ordained list which includes daily tides and weather, both local as well as Sea of Cortez and the islands.
From there it's on to mail call and requests for anyone going north to take mail to the States or another Mexican port of call.  Next boaters have an opportunity to announce arrivals and departures and to make requests for rides out of La Paz, either by car or boat. There is a lost and found section (one grateful traveler found his missing passport and immigration card that way) and a time for Club Cruceros and general announcements, no advertising, por favor.
Probably the next most popular part is "local assistance" where boat owners, many new to the area, request information to help find a myriad of items and services, everything from repair people to boat parts to things like where to find a jar of peanut butter larger than 6 oz. and where one might find bird seed (yes, the last two requests came from Milagro). Actually the Club Cruceros website has an excellent services page which compiles much of this information. You can check it out if you like: clubcruceros.org.
Last, but not least, we have "swaps and trades".  Only Mexican citizens or licensed businesses may legally sell anything in Mexico so items must be either swapped or traded for "coconuts", apparently the legal tender among cruisers in Mexico.
At this point the net controller gives a "last call," and then reopens channel 22 for general use.
That's when the party line begins. Land lubbers as well as boaters use channel 22 to reach other VHF users.  If I want to reach S. on Two Can Play I turn to channel 22, press the call button and announce "Two Can Play, Two Can Play, this is Milagro."  If she is monitoring her radio she answers, "This is Two Can Play, Milagro,  what channel?"  I then choose a channel, say 17 (avoiding channels used for emergency, shipping or the port captain, as well as others) and we both switch to that channel where we can chat. Upon completing our business we switch back to 22 which in La Paz  is a hailing channel, only.
It's a good system but has a couple of drawbacks.  If the person you are trying to contact is not monitoring channel 22,  there's no way to leave a message.  The other issue is that there is nothing private about this chatter.  Anyone can "follow" you to another channel and hear your conversation, so one wants to be discreet. It's taken me some time to feel comfortable using the VHF, but by now my cell phone is primarily and organizer and I rely on VHF for most communication.

Horsefeathers!

That's what my former, very ladylike, very devout mother-in-law would say when faced with, shall we say, a disappointment.

Stray Dogs, a few years ago...

My disappointment of the day?  The adoption of our stray dog didn't go through. I saw this quote immediately after I heard news, and I thought it apropos:

Do not lose yourself in the labyrinth of your own self-pity, in the maze of your own guilt. Rather, call yourself forth, in the next grandest version of the greatest vision you ever held about Who You Are.       Neale Donald Walsch

Every "dog" has his day; someone will be a happy Stray Dogs owner soon, I know. For now the vision I see for myself  is being a one boat owner!  Not very grand but very satisfying.

Come home soon, Captain!  As for me, I have places to go and projects to complete, a cello to practice and a kayak to paddle, oh, and windows to wash.

Super Bowl Sunday in Mexico

The big question being asked around the marinas in La Paz this week: is it true we can't purchase alcohol this weekend?  The answer is a resounding yes, it's true.  February 5th is an official holiday in Mexico,  Dia de la Constitution,* although this year it is actually celebrated on the 7th, thus giving most Mexicans a long weekend. No alcohol may be sold in La Paz from 10:00 Saturday until Monday evening.  Or so rumor has it. What, no beer to go with the Super Bowl? That's un-American! Oops, we aren't in Kansas anymore. Many local restaurants have big screen T.V.'s and show American sports programs regularly and I have a sneaking suspicion they'll get around this issue somehow.

I think I'll follow the game on my computer and enjoy a Modelo with chips and salsa, and maybe I'll even whip up a batch of my sister's cheese and olive balls.  Mmmmm. crisp and yummy right out of the oven.  See you later!


*The holiday honors the the "new" constitution of 1917, written by Venustiano Carranza and his followers. It remains today as the general body of law ruling Mexico, although more than 400 amendments have been added.

Feeling lonely

A rose in an English churchyard..
makes me feel good.

Kind of sad today.  Captain is still in the States.  My new friends on Orontes II, on Rose of Erin and on Panoia are all leaving the marina tomorrow or Monday.  The first couple heads back to Texas after spending a couple of weeks working on their boat; the other two are sailing to Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta, respectively.  Orontes and Panoia occupy slips on either side of us so it will really be lonely here.  Experienced cruisers tell us one often meets boat friends over and over again while cruising.  I hope that is so. I like these people!
So for the next little while I will spend more time playing my cello and, if it warms up a bit, exploring in my kayak, and working on my Spanish.  What with walks and bike rides and on board duties I will manage to keep busy.
Tonight it's dinner our with Orontes and Rose of Erin crews so I'll enjoy that and take care of tomorrow, tomorrow.
.

While the Captain's away

a favorite picture, taken in England in 2005

The captain is still in sunny Florida where he is working very hard on, would you believe it, a boat!  He also has more business further north and of course he's looking forward to spending a bit of time with friends and family. I miss him, particularly at sunset time when I am the only one sitting on the foredeck enjoying the fabulous view.

Even with everyday duties to complete and a few miscellaneous projects to conquer,  I do have some time on my hands so thought I would use a bit of it to share what's going on, for me, in La Paz.

First of all, I’m now driving, by myself, in Mexico.  It has occurred to me that with my fabulously clean driving record in the States (I know, I’m unjustly proud of 50 years of driving and no tickets, no accidents) I should be able to navigate the streets of La Paz. My first venture was to drive back to the marina after leaving Larry at the bus station. Whew! I made it.  Next I spent a whole day chauffeuring a friend around the city as he shopped for provisions and boat items prior to taking off for parts south. Since then I’ve driven to Club Crucerous, done some shopping and even got the car washed.  I know the captain will be happy about the clean car and even happier on my willingness to drive solo here.

Those who know me know how much I love to read, so it was a great pleasure to find a local book club and be invited to join.  The group meets monthly to discuss a previously assigned book and to talk about future selections. This month we discussed La Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver.  I was particularly happy with this selection as I admire the author and share an interest in the topics covered in the novel: Mexico, Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, then on to the U.S. in the era of the McCarthy hearings.  Altogether it was a great read for me and for most of the other members.  One bonus: the club meets in a private home, a hacienda which is large and lovely (the club has about 30 members!).  The house has three floors with rotundas at the 2^nd and 3^rd levels, wide marble staircases, lots of artwork and what we would call a “widow’s walk” above it all. Oh yes, and they serve wine and cake.

I’m spending more time cooking on board.  I was surprised to have so much difficulty preparing full meals in our small galley.  After all, for better or worse I have been cooking for years.  The counter space is, well, nearly non existent.  Cooking an ordinary meal with a meat (for the captain), a couple of vegetables, maybe a salad and some bread left me with the fridge and freezer tops covered with cutting boards and food in various stages of preparation and me with no access to the fridge and freezer.  I’m also dealing with a three burner gas stove which, although I find has many advantages, has no work surface at all.  My solution has been to either prep everything ahead of time or find some go-to recipes for great one dish meals.  So far coq au vin is my favorite, or at least the captain and guests’ favorite.  Ahhh….practice makes perfect or at least better!

I’m enjoying walking and biking.  It’s a great way to get around, even if you are willing to drive the car, and with all of the delicious but carbohydrate laden Mexican food I can really use the exercise.  Buddi seems to enjoy the outings in her backpack as well.

With all that fun time I am still diligently carrying out first mate duties on board and they do keep me almost busy enough.  Counting the days until the captain returns and wishing him all good luck in all of his ventures.

P.S.  Friends in Florida may now gloat: a nasty Norther blew in two days ago. It was 49 degrees in La Paz with 34 knot winds blowing in the marina!  Milagro was being blown against the dock and I got up several times to check lines and make sure the fenders hadn't ruptured as the had on a neighboring boat. But it's still sunny!