Larry's version of sailing to Loreto - Part I

Edie has asked me to comment on our recent sailing trip to Loreto, and when I mentioned this to George McDermott during a phone conversation, he suggested that I tell the story from the male perspective.  I’m not sure that I am going to do that, but I would like to talk about my observations, experiences and reactions to things we experienced and obviously lived through.  Even though I was there also, I enjoy reading Edie’s account of the trip and relive it through her stories.  So I will attempt to tell about the trip a little differently.

The whole purpose of our being in Mexico originally was to buy this boat, Milagro, and to prepare her for a great sailing adventure across the South Pacific to some never-never land.  I had not intended for this process to last two years, but here we are.  We’ve worked hard in updating the boat with new electronics, radar, GPS, auto pilot, depth sounders, AIS receivers, Shortwave transceivers, new plumbing, new electrical, lots of new paint, and the list goes on and on.  Although I did make a trip with a couple from Canada, across the Sea of Cortez to Mazatlan last year, I knew when we made the trip, that the boat was not as it should have been, and although we had no autopilot and other systems were still compromised, with a great deal of fortitude, we made the trip and enjoyed the experience.  This trip to Loreto was to be the real shakedown cruise for Milagro, for now the systems are essentially complete and solid.  In addition to that, the trip was most important because Edie was trying out big water sailing, for the second time.  The first was a failed trip to Mazatlan almost a year ago, when the boat did not perform well, and the seas became brutal, and winds were ripping at us for about 36 hours.  During that trip Edie had a difficult time with sea sickness, and questioned her physical abilities to deal with such dramatic elements.  The only good that came from that trip was that Edie found out that she could manage her fear, something that seemed to overtake her when it came to sailing.  I was very proud of her for that.

Passage making has always been my favorite type of sailing.  I especially enjoy night sailing.  I like going around the clock, open seas, sunrise, sunset and all that comes between.  On a clear night, and beyond the influence of artificial light, the stars are so magnificent, it oftn defies words.  And when the moon is just right, it is bright enough to read a book in the cockpit.  So one of the major objectives of this trip was to conduct part of the trip as an overnight sail, and give Edie the opportunity to experience the part I love best.

Getting ready to snub the anchor

When we first started the trip, our intention had been to be alone, not subject to any others influences, but before we got out of La Paz we ran across two other boats with similar plans to our own.  The other boaters were Bill and Julie from California on Voyager, and John and Nicky from Alaska, on Seychelles.  After being in anchorages on Caleta Partita at Candlero, and again on Isla San Francisco, we began to enjoy knowing that we had friends close by, and upon occasion, visiting, and doing things with them.  Bill was especially helpful when I put together my hooka system (scuba dive gear), and was about to use it for the first time.  I am not a diver and I needed all the help that I could get.  I had to learn about buoyancy, and weight belts, and he gave me good insight into what to expect as I went deeper.  John, Bill and Julie were wonderful when it came to sharing weather information with us.  Good weather information and understanding is critical when you are traveling on the water. 

I have been to the islands just outside La Paz many times, and each time I have marveled at the amazing geological displays that we see there.  You can look at the layers of volcanic activity, and see the periods in history when the land was obviously underwater, but in all cases the many colors in the layers of the earth tell stories that the least scientific of us can marvel about.  The orange then yellow, mingled with deep black, then red layers paints pictures of history and dramatic happenings.  The erosion,  and corrosion of the rock faces look like alien writing on cliff walls, and inspire belief that the earth is trying to tell us something.

Roco Monumento

Although the islands are only about 20 miles long there are many coves and protected areas  where the water gets shallow enough for dropping an anchor and cruisers go there and spend weeks and even months, just hanging out. The sea life, the birds, the predators and the food chain all play out daily and nightly.  Just to the north of the island is the rock called Los Islotes, where a colony of sea lions live.  We always take the opportunity the visit the sea lions.  I have been in several of the anchorages, but my favorite has become Candlero.  In the middle of the anchorage there is a huge rock that sticks out of the water and is several hundred feet tall.  It is a great place to watch and listen to the birds.  The beach is long and white sandy and easy to land on with the dingy, and just behind the beach are mountains, or at least really big hills, that , can be scaled by the most hardy of us.  I did it once and the views were spectacular, but I was wearing Crocs, the rocks were too big, and I did not make it to the top.  But I did get some great pictures of Milagro sitting at anchor, and the scrapes, scratches and bruises were all worthwhile by the amazing view from horizon to horizon.

The islands are basically the dividing line between the Bay of La Paz and the Sea of Cortez.   Leaving the islands on our way to Isla San Francisco will be the first time that we came into the actual Sea of Cortez.  Although we could see land far away, it had the feel of being offshore and making passage.  To me this is what sailing is about, and for the first time we had enough wind to sail, although it was marginal.  To me the most pleasant sound is when you shut off the ole diesel engine, and listen to the sails, and the wind in the rigging working together to carry us across the water.  It is an incredibly satisfying feeling when all these elements conspire together.